T

Что такое

«медленный шопинг» 

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и почему он важен 

в новой реальности

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За последние годы мы стали покупать совсем иначе. Онлайн-магазины стали общим местом, купить понравившиеся штаны или сумку можно в пару кликов, а приложения дополненной реальности помогают определиться с выбором, предлагая виртуально «примерить» кроссовки. Специальные сервисы могут проанализировать наш образ жизни и рекомендовать одежду, так что ее не придется даже искать по сайтам. Темп жизни ускоряется, а вместе с ним и процесс шопинга: нам может казаться, что чем быстрее мы совершим покупки, тем лучше, ведь время — ценный ресурс.

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Тем не менее интуитивные ощущения не всегда верны. «Яндекс» провел исследование (его презентовали на «Большой конференции Яндекса для ретейла», смотрите с 7:45 минуты), как российские потребители покупают разные категории товаров, и выяснил, что при выборе одежды 58% опрошенных обходятся вообще без интернета, а когда дело доходит до фактической покупки, в магазины едут 72% пользователей — получается, заказам в интернет-магазинах доверяют только 28%. Можно сделать вывод, что «живое» знакомство с одеждой по-прежнему крайне важно для большинства людей в России.

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Последние месяцы также внесли свои коррективы в наш опыт покупок. Не имея доступа в физические магазины, покупатели были вынуждены сосредоточиться на онлайн-шопинге, но уже сейчас видно, как всем нам не хватало опыта присутствия, неторопливого выбора и осознанного совершения покупок после непосредственного контакта с вещами. Концепция такого взаимодействия уже давно получила неформальное название «медленный шопинг». Вместе с Novaya Riga Outlet Village разбираемся, как возникло явление slow shopping, зачем оно нужно жителю современного мегаполиса и почему становится особенно ценным в условиях новой, переосмысленной реальности.


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В чем концепция «медленного шопинга»

«Медленное движение» началось в конце восьмидесятых — с противостояния набирающему популярность фастфуду: тогда люди массово собрались на демонстрацию против открытия «Макдоналдса» рядом с исторической площадью Испании в Риме. Главная идея движения заключается в отказе от суеты и ускорения любых процессов в пользу осознанности, обдумывания совершаемых действий и наслаждения ими. Сейчас медленное движение распространяется на самые разные сферы жизни, от садоводства до образования, и даже получило свою научную организацию — Мировой институт медленности.


Термин «медленная мода» был введен журналисткой и автором книг по устойчивому развитию в моде Кейт Флетчер в 2007 году. Согласно ей, «медленная мода — это не сезонный тренд, который приходит и уходит, как линька у животных, а набирающее обороты экологически рациональное движение». Основной тезис медленной моды — качество важнее количества, и из него следует замедление темпов потребления одежды и осознанный выбор долговечных вещей. Это и есть медленный шопинг.


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Как медленный шопинг помогает устойчивому развитию моды



Флетчер противопоставляла медленную моду быстрой, то есть fast fashion, которую можно считать синонимом масс-маркета — дешевой некачественной одежды, коллекции которой меняются в магазинах чуть ли не каждую неделю, а объемы производства огромны. В мире ежегодно производится более 150 миллиардов предметов одежды и аксессуаров, которые покупаются в спешке. В результате колоссальная часть из них отправляется на свалки — количество текстильного мусора выросло на 811% за полвека. И в этом свете идея медленного шопинга становится одним из путей минимизации ущерба.


С чем носить новые ботинки? Удобны ли они? Достаточно ли качественно сделаны, чтобы радовать не один сезон? Если отказаться от бездумного следования быстрым трендам и выделить чуть больше времени на выбор новой одежды, обуви и аксессуаров, это поможет избежать импульсивных покупок, после которых вещи с большой вероятностью окажутся в дальнем углу шкафа или будут выброшены.


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Почему медленный шопинг — это психологически важный опыт

У ускорения темпа жизни есть всем известные побочные эффекты: это один из основных источников стресса для населения крупных городов — от него и связанных с ним проблем со здоровьем страдает более 80% горожан. Сам процесс шопинга тоже начинает вызывать стресс: кажется, что мы тратим на покупки лишнее время, за которое могли бы успеть сделать еще миллион таких важных дел.


Но одежда, обувь, предметы для дома — все эти вещи остаются с нами надолго. Они давно утратили исключительно утилитарную функцию: это все — часть нашей личности и системы коммуникации с внешним миром, поэтому неторопливое, вдумчивое их приобретение становится еще и инструментом налаживания контакта с собственными эмоциями и, как следствие, снижения уровня ежедневного стресса.


Опыт медленного шопинга получается историей не только про покупки, но и про психологический комфорт. Поэтому и запрос городского жителя становится комплексным. Кроме нужных товаров в одном месте хочется получить и другие составляющие приятного и успокаивающего времяпровождения: вкусную и здоровую еду, культурное обогащение, возможность передохнуть в тишине и не беспокоиться за ребенка.


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Многие мировые бренды поэтому совмещают свои флагманские магазины с кафе и галереями и даже библиотеками, проводят там образовательные программы и оказывают дополнительные услуги, которые призваны облегчить жизнь покупателей Gucci открыли во Флоренции пространство Gucci Garden — кроме самого магазина там есть музей с сувенирной лавкой и кафе. Другие подобные примеры — флагманский магазин Prada в Милане и Ralph Lauren в Нью-Йорке, а Burberry в Лондоне как раз готовят к открытию такое пространство.


По этому же принципу устроен аутлет Novaya Riga Outlet Village: помимо магазинов одежды, аксессуаров и косметики (а их тут более 150 — это бенды от Sergio Rossi и Brunello Cuccinelli до Levi’s, Lacoste и Timberland) на его территории есть несколько кафе и ресторанов, детская зона, парковое пространство для отдыха и центр современного искусства. Здесь можно спокойно гулять и отдыхать, обдумывая шопинг. В магазинах аутлета представлены вещи из прошлых коллекций со скидками от 30 до 70% — и это не только возможность выгодной покупки, но и еще один шаг против кризиса перепроизводства.


Принудительное замедление, в которое весь мир оказался вовлечен в последние месяцы, показало важность баланса скоростей и периодических остановок, чтобы оглядеться и осознать происходящее. Ускоренный ритм городской жизни хоть и связан со стрессом, но также дает возможности для самореализации. Недавнее исследование ученых из Калифорнийского государственного университета показало, что быстрый жизненный темп коррелирует с высоким уровнем жизни и общей удовлетворенностью ею, но ключевым условием остается вовлеченность людей в происходящее с ними. А вовлечься, как это ни парадоксально, можно, только иногда замедляясь. И медленный шопинг — отличная возможность для этого.


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Материал подготовлен при поддержке 

Текст: Варя Баркалова

Дизайн и верстка: Кюннэй Саввина

Иллюстрации: Маша Костевич


Редактор проекта: Алена Анюхина

Менеджер проекта: Роман Рык


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